The Cartago Ruins: An Unfinished Tale of Costa Rica’s Past.
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In the city of Cartago, Costa Rica, stand the remains of an ancient church known as Las Ruinas de Cartago. This old church is the parish of Santiago Apostle, built at the end of the XVI century by Franciscans. It was never finished and underwent many reconstructions due to earthquakes. It is an unfinished work, but we locals call them “Las Ruinas” (The Ruins).
The Cartago ruins are not just a historical site; they come with a chilling legend of a headless priest who is said to wander the place.
Getting to The Cartago Ruins
The Cartago ruins are very close to San Jose, just 25 km (15.5 miles) away. If you’re coming from Liberia it will take you about 257 km (160 miles) arrived there. The ruins are located in the center of Cartago, in front of the main square, so they’re easy to find.
By Car
Driving from San Jose to the Cartago Ruins takes about an hour; from Liberia, four and a half hours. Both have excellent well-paved roads in good condition, so all vehicles can make it there comfortably.
There are lots of parking spaces around the ruins, nevertheless, from Monday to Friday, those spaces must be reserved and paid for through an app called epark CR (available only in Spanish). On Sundays, the spaces are free to use.
For those who do not want to or cannot use the app, public parking lots are nearby where cars can be left safely during your visit — they’re just a short walk away from the ruins.
By Public Transportation
From San José, you have a few options for getting to Cartago using public transportation.
Buses leave frequently from the terminal in downtown San José and take a little over an hour.
Another option is a train, that runs between San José and Cartago, but only works on weekdays (Monday through Friday) and have a specific schedule for certain hours in the morning and afternoon.
If you’re coming from Liberia, your trip requires more planning. You’ll need to take a bus from Liberia to San José first. Once there you can take either a bus or a train to get to Cartago.
From either, the bus terminal or the train station in Cartago, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the Cartago Ruins.
Taxis and services such as Uber or Didi are available for those who prefer not to take public transportation. From San José, this service starts around ¢12,000.
All these transportation options and important points are included in the tourist map at the end of the article.
Entrance Fee & Opening Times
The Cartago Ruins are open every day of the year from 8:00 until 16:00. However, during September this schedule may change due to civic activities surrounding Costa Rica’s independence celebrations.
Entrance into the ruins is completely free of charge, making this historic destination accessible and affordable for all visitors.
The History of the Ruins
The Franciscans built the first church in 1575, more than seven decades after Christopher Columbus arrived in Costa Rica. Over time, the initial structure suffered several modifications and was also affected by earthquakes. In 1841, an earthquake destroyed it completely, and in the 1860s the local government decided to build a new stone temple.
The design for the new church was developed by German architect Francisco Kurtze who used Roman architectural style in its design – this is the only example of Roman-style architecture in Costa Rica. Its construction began during the 1870s, but faced many obstacles, such as lack of funds, that made it last half a century to be built.
Another earthquake hit in 1910, when the church was about to be completed, leaving it as it is now – incomplete. After this disaster, the local government resolved to demolish it, but the Catholic Church opposed such decision, and the structure remained as it is today.
Throughout history there have been so many failures to complete it, that legends arose which suggest that some curse affects this place.
One of the most captivating legends related to The Ruins of Cartago, tells about a priest without head. According to this story, a clergyman fell in love with a woman who was about to marry his brother. In fit of jealousy, the priest killed his brother and then got beheaded as punishment for what he had done. It is said that his spirit cannot rest, so he wanders among these ruins, adding some mystery around them.
Tips for Visiting
- Visit During National Festivities: If you enjoy learning about culture and history, visit during the national festivities on September 14th and 15th. The ruins will be lit up at night and there are civic activities to celebrate Costa Rican independence.
- Inside the ruins there are gardens and a small pond with fish; so it’s a great spots for photographs. There are signs at different points explaining their history, both in Spanish and English language versions.
- The ruins can be visited throughout the year but if you go during rainy season don’t forget to take a rain jacket or an umbrella with you
- Respect the site by not leaving trash behind. Help preserve its historical and cultural significance.
- Although it is an incomplete construction, we locals, call it “Las Ruinas”, so you can also call them like that.
- Take the opportunity to spend some time in the square, in front of the ruins; feed pigeons or have a snow cone while enjoy the local ambiance.
